Technology and dehumanisation via Tsukamoto and Zeitlich Vergelter
Komakino SS15
Federico Capalbo’s Komakino, a collection of MA-1s, military codes and tailoring rooted in (and rising out of) subculture has found fans in ASAP Rocky and Rihanna over the past few seasons. The brilliant paradox is they’re still clothes best suited to power electronics gigs with an audience of 17 in Limehouse. That’s written in stone.
This time the flashes of bright yellow, pink, orange and blue that skirt around slashed elbows and the like is a direct reference to Japanese Cyberpunk. Films by directors such as Fukui, Ishii and Tsukamoto and industrial music groups Der Eisenrost and Zeitlich Vergelter (whose frontman Chu Ishikawa signed the soundtracks of many of Tsukamoto’s films) loosely influenced the collection, which is loud and ‘minimal’ at the same time – the fluoro nylons lining tailored coats and sleeveless jackets are almost see-through when paired with light wools.
It’s an emotional reaction to dehumanisation, technology and overexposure. Progress’ false salvation? It’s there in the mantra High Tech, Low Life, racing across the back of outerwear.
Check the mood we’re premiering here and head to our collections coverage for the full SS15 lookbook.