A garden bar serving Aperol Spritz sat at the centre of Amiri’s SS24 runway, warmed by the mid-afternoon sun and soundtracked by the up-tempo beat of Brazilian band Trio Mocotó. Not all runway shows are what you’d describe as ‘fun’ – this one certainly was. Guests drank, chatted and chilled on bistro chairs.

This atmosphere of playfulness and lightness extended to the collection itself. Rooted in Mike Amiri’s own journey – from his beginnings repurposing vintage clothing into contemporary stagewear to establishing a luxury fashion house in LA – the season centred around the story of an LA dude travelling through Europe’s glamorous locations, discovering new quirks, styles and sensibilities as he goes. And while he may not have much to his name, he creates with what he finds – and makes it exquisite. Oversized suiting mimics the off-kilter cool of vintage finds individually styled to fit, plaid fabrics are picnic blankets swiped and sliced into trousers, and wildflowers picked from the garden are embroidered as shimmering decorations. Everything is balanced between LA skate and European savoir-faire – let’s call it Cali couture.

There was a swagger and style that is distinctly LA, and therefore distinctly Amiri, twisting traditional, heritage silhouettes and fabrics into something fun, individual and sophisticated that flows with that effortless ease you see 24/7 across Cali’s skate parks and gig venues. Bouclé shimmers with sequin embellishment and flecks of tinsel, as if it’s been raining pom poms and mirrorballs, and tightly braided leather jackets are inspired by the traditional French bistro chairs this season’s protagonist finds himself regularly chilling on; whiskey in one hand, Gary Snyder poetry in the other – probably. Customising tradition towards a contemporary formality, ties are worn as belts, silk scarves hang loose à la Sinatra and penny loafers are crafted with a chunky, creeper platform. Throughout scrap fabric was neatly reimagined as oversized lapel flowers and woven hats were hybrids of baseball caps and traditional berets. The Amiri man is travelling far and having fun with it, mirroring the brand’s own steadfast trajectory.