Since the brand’s founding in 2020, av vattev’s world has been populated by the sights and sounds of the 1970s and 1990s – exploring the cultural touchstones of Syd Shelton’s iconic images of the 1970s Rock Against Racism movement or the sonic landscape of Britpop. For FW25, Antonio Vattev is continuing that exploration through a collection titled Rhythm; presented as a lookbook and zine filled with reference images of Mick Jagger on stage in his signature slinky satin and flares, black and white portraits of Lou Reed and archival imagery of Andrew Loog Oldham on the road.

This season focused on the art of subversion, transforming archetypal menswear silhouettes through av’s lens, toeing the line between precision and play. Highlighting the designer’s innovative approach to tailoring, the twisted Gurkha trousers are transformed with dual belt fastenings, structured blazers cropped to the midriff and suit trousers pleated with precision. Skinny scarves are fused with mandarin collars allowing ribbon-like pieces of fabric to billow from the neck, while garments are accented with Georgia O’Keefe-inspired embellishment as silver studding emulates a contemporary vision of traditional Bulgarian embroidery.