It’s been threatened for a long time but we must report that bumsters are officially back. The super low-rise trousers were all over Balenciaga’s SS25 collection, paired with bulky jackets and knitwear, leaving the midriffs of the male models on full display. If Demna’s aim for SS25 was to exude sexiness then he succeeded in abundance. The first looks of the collection were full lingerie looks, bras and hosiery, paired with handbags and heels. Then we had jumpers and huge fur coats draped over the lingerie, one can only imagine the situations these models had found themselves in. 

Meanwhile, prairie dresses made a rare appearance on the runway, reminding us of Mia Goth’s turn as Pearl. In another rare appearance, polo shirts, with their collars popped, also turned up. No collars were as popped as the jean collars, however. Yes, whole pairs of jeans acted as collars on a number of tops, matched with baseball caps that covered the entire face (don’t worry, they have gauze in them so you can see). 

The show took place atop a huge table that acted as the catwalk: a memory evoked by Demna of staging fashion shows on his grandmother’s kitchen table. This was his way of going back to the very beginning. And it must be noted that this season didn’t have many of his usual over-the-top flourishes. There was a real focus on, dare we say, wearability. Was this show a new beginning for Demna’s Balenciaga?