Radclyffe Hall’s The Well of Loneliness garnered huge controversy when it was first published in 1928. The book’s main character, Stephen Gordon, is a lesbian who dresses in male attire and has donned a masculine name. Throughout the book, Hall writes openly about Gordon’s lesbianism and her status as an “invert”. Naturally, the novel’s open fearlessness in writing about such taboo topics in 1920s British society has garnered it a status as a controversial classic. Hall herself wasn’t dissimilar from her protagonist. Also a lesbian with a penchant for tailored suits, Hall’s open existence in early 20th century Britain totally changes our perception of the lives of queer people of the era. It feels very natural that Erdem Moralıoğlu would turn to Hall as the inspiration behind his SS25 collection.

Returning to the British Museum, the Erdem collection had exquisitely tailored suits in abundance, rendered in dusty pinks and greens. There was also a flurry of hanging crystal strands and lurex yarn, all exuding that 1920s flapper aesthetic. Compared to Erdem’s last season, which was a luxurious night at the opera, this collection felt much smaller scale, which absolutely worked. You felt perhaps Erdem wanted to showcase that he’s more than just gigantic opera coats and rococo prints, he can be demure too.