White cube
Only Jonathan Anderson could lure the fashion crowd to the outskirts of Paris on a rainy Friday during fashion week, inviting guests to the opulent Esplanade Saint-Louis in the city’s 12th arrondissement for his SS25 Loewe show. Known for drawing one of the most A-list crowds, it wouldn’t be a Loewe show without the soundtrack of screaming fans outside eagerly awaiting the arrival of Jeff Goldblum, Daniel Craig, Drew Starkey, Josh O’Connor and Ayo Eedebiri (we could go on…). Post-hysteria, guests were invited to take a seat in the white cubed show venue where a single sculpture of a small bird perched atop a towering post by British artist Tracey Emin and titled The only place you came to me was in my sleep, commanded attention at the centre of an otherwise empty space.
In a similar vein to the brand’s SS25 menswear show A Radical Act of Restraint, which hit the runway in June, Anderson took those same principles of reduction and applied them to his womenswear. As per the show notes, Anderson asked “What happens when one takes all the noise away? Is it possible to fill an empty white room, commanding attention, without shouting for space?” The answer is a resounding yes. In stripping things back to their core, the designer allowed silhouette and craft to shine, immortalised in the first three looks that hit the runway like an optical illusion: floating dresses in impressionist floral printed organza were wired at the hem to extreme proportions, appearing suspended in mid-movement.
Tailoring was reduced to a delicate draping across the body in the form of slouchy single-breasted suits as opposed to structural garments with harsh lines, while supple leather outerwear orbited in circular hemlines alongside trousers built from the same material which rippled towards the floor. Mini dresses rose high up the thigh in shimmering fabrics that ballooned at the waist into tiny bubble skirts, knitwear was adorned with sequins and the everyday ease of t-shirt and trouser ensembles were a more casual outing. Always one to root his collections in the arts, Johann Sebastian Bach – whose sheet music was printed in large on the outside walls of the show space – featured on a white feathered top reminiscent of tour merch and Van Gogh’s 1890s Irises was recreated on an inflated top. So whether you’re a Baroque kinda girl or more into the early post-impressionist artists – you were there before they were big, obviously – Jonathan Anderson has you covered.
GALLERYCatwalk images from Loewe WOMENS-SPRING-SUMMER-25