With Dries Van Noten readying himself for his final collection this weekend, Walter Van Beirendonck must face the reality that he is about to become the last of the Antwerp Six still showing on schedule. Does this mean that Walter was in a reflective mood? Perhaps somber that the designer that he’s known for over forty years is retiring? Not a chance! This is Walter Van Beirendonck. His latest collection was forty looks inspired by clowns.

Titled I Have Seen the Future…, his SS25 collection was soundtracked by distorted, electro circus music and the models wore clown-inspired make-up and little party hats designed by Stephen Jones. A recurring concept throughout were coats that had cut-out circles dangling and flowing like polka dots made flesh. As always, the colours were garish and daring, with Billy Ham-like faces being used as a motif on shirts and trousers. The shoes were covered in rubber nubs and appeared in traffic cone orange and baby blue.

In the show notes, Walter wrote that “in today’s world, everything feels endlessly dramatic” and he goes on to name Charlie Chaplin, with his bowler hat and baggy trousers, as an inspiration for the collection. As we exit a period in fashion where “quiet luxury” was the by-word for success, collections like this feel like a glorious respite.