Occurring mere days after winning the newly inaugurated LVMH Savoir-Faire Prize, Michael Stewart’s SS25 collection for Standing Ground was a stunning display of craftsmanship that felt so totally unique in the London schedule. Standing Ground is a made-to-order brand, so Stewart’s SS25 was more a display of recent commissions, rather than a specially conceived season of outfits. But that didn’t mean there was a lack of cohesion or through-line across the 22 looks. His trademark beading and ribbing, which always looks so extraterrestrial, was present throughout the majority of the looks. Elsewhere, crushed velvets and leathers added a layer of luxury to gowns that came in surprising silhouettes, with cowled hoods and armour-like chest pieces.

This was Standing Ground’s first slot on the London schedule after his tenure at Fashion East and there was a sense whilst watching the collection that Stewart already feels very much at home.