Back in June, Dries Van Noten officially departed from his namesake label, marking the occasion with an emotional swansong show in Paris attended by family, friends and industry greats. Notably, there was no announcement of a successor, so when Dries’ name appeared on the SS25 schedule predictions for the brand’s next step began to circulate and as guests took to their seats inside a derelict building in Paris’ 9th arrondissement the anticipation to see what the future held for Dries felt palpable (spoiler: it didn’t disappoint).

Brought to life in Antwerp by the brand’s dedicated in-house design team, the collection delicately toed the line between a continuation of heritage and a new perspective. The notes of French composer François de Roubaix’s Son Adres (Dernier domicile connu) filled the venue as the first model hit the runway in a snake print overcoat, setting the tone for a collection that played with the versatility of prints in true Dries fashion. Pastel florals, earthy paisley prints and vibrant brushstrokes were just a few of the eclectic patterns paired together in a harmonious clash of colour. Silhouettes played on the micro and macro: suiting was exaggerated at the shoulders and narrowed at the waist while tiny hotpants stood alongside sweeping slip dresses.

Jacquard fabrics were manipulated to alter our perspective on light and colour, appearing crushed or crinkled alongside garments embellished with spherical studs or matte sequins. In a further play on juxtaposition, looks built from shimmering satin and wispy lace walked next to laser-treated denim and masculine pinstripes. The colour palette followed a cohesive trajectory as looks transitioned from autumnal tones of khaki and chocolate to rich pinks and oranges, ending the show with looks cast in greys and blacks. As the show came to a close and the brand’s design team took their bow, Dries applauded from a seat on the front row, watching the next generation continue his inimitable legacy.