Vaquera celebrated their tenth birthday by doing something wholly unorthodox – they produced a collection of wearable basics. The brand, which was founded by Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee, has always gleefully raged against the fashion industry. “Vaquera was started 10 years ago as an exercise in subversion,” the show notes read. “Vaquera designs over the years have at times been extremes of ideas, a rebuttal of the system they were looking to engage with.”

But as the models walked for Vaquera’s SS25 show on the first day of Paris Fashion Week, immediately there was a sense that the designers were trying to establish a new look for the brand. As the show notes put it: “With an established DNA and lens, the focus has shifted to wearability and the idea of ‘New Basics’.” Naturally, these basics weren’t wallowing in the dregs of the now-dead “quiet luxury” trend, it was all still unmistakably Vaquera, but the kind of Vaquera that you could easily wear in your everyday life.

Striped shirts with popped collars, vests with built-in bustiers, distressed leather trousers and, that most recognisable of Vaquera silhouettes, a slip skirt worn over a t-shirt and trousers. There were plenty of new lines introduced in the show too. For the first time ever, Vaquera exhibited sunglasses in a vintage style with thick arms. There was also footwear, another virgin territory for the brand. Taking from their name (Vaquera means cowgirl in Spanish), the brand’s first shoes looked to cowboy boots as a starting point and came in two styles, a knee-high style and a pump. Also on foot, a new collaboration with Onitsuka Tiger saw the classic Mexico 66 style reinterpreted in shiny silver with the words “Love” and “Rage” stitched on the tongue.