For SS25, Andreas Kronthaler presented a collection titled Calibrate, set in the heart of Place de République – a place historically known for being at the centre of change and protest. Inside, the windows were spray painted with graffiti in an ode to Vivienne Westwood’s inherently rebellious spirit and techno filled the frequencies.

As per the show notes, Kronthaler was channelling “brainy sexiness” and an “ultra-feminine rather than elegant” energy, perhaps a personification of the Philipp Ekardt quote which accompanied Kronthaler’s collection notes, “Without fashion, sex ‘tout court’ might die. Or, to put it less dramatically: there is fashion because there isn’t enough sex.” Opting to show exclusively womenswear this season allowed the designer to lean into the sensual side of Westwood with a series of plunging necklines cut across classic shirting, satin bodysuits, structured tailoring and wrap dresses slashed to the navel. Sheer fabrics populated the collection as gowns came down the runway built from organza and tops were entirely made from lace. Throughout, an uncharacteristically muted colour palette was punctuated by flashes of hot red and pink alongside patterns of classic Westwood tartan or abstract floral. A playful array of accessories added a touch of humour to Kronthaler’s new woman as cigarettes hung from models’ mouths, headphones covered their ears and oversized shades shielded them from passers-by – after all, there’s nothing sexier than nonchalance.