Willy Chavarria, New York’s reigning fashion prince, made a striking Paris debut with a show that seamlessly fused the rugged sensibilities of Americana with a touch of European refinement. From the outset, with a look featuring a white wide-brimmed Stetson hat and an oversized collar, it was clear that Chavarria was reintroducing his vision to a global audience. If people didn’t already get how major he is, his cast – which included Honey Dijon, Alva Claire, J Balvin and Becky G – surely turned their heads.

The show was titled Tarantula, both after the arachnid and the This Mortal Coil song. A comment on the world we live in, the tarantula is both soft and cuddly but will bite if provoked, a dualism that Chavarria loves to play with in his collections. There were over 60 looks, which included red velvet suits (with rosary bead accessories), cinched funeral dresses, smart tuxedos, graphic t-shirts, denim skirts, patterned cravats, and oversized bouclé jackets that recalled the ones made famous by Chanel.

Collaborations were central to the show, reflecting Chavarria’s ethos of community and innovation. The second installment of his partnership with Adidas debuted with a capsule of 90s hip-hop-inspired pieces. A collaboration with Return to Vendor featured garments crafted from repurposed fishing nets, underscoring Chavarria’s commitment to sustainability. The ‘How We Love Is Who We Are’ sweatshirt was a collaboration with the dating app Tinder, and the Chuco Suit, a collaboration with eBay, became instantly available to buy after the show with 100 percent of the proceeds going to the California Community Foundation Wildfire Recovery Fund.