Kiko Kostadinov’s FW25 show marked a noticeable shift in the brand’s design language, replacing technical minimalism with a newfound penchant for ruggedness. Taking inspiration from various cultural touchstones of the last century, the work of Hungarian director Béla Tarr and Russian artist Kon Trubkovich lay at the centre of the designer’s moodboard. Best known for creating visually stark, melancholic stories which meditate on isolation, the terrain in which Tarr’s characters exist was felt in the show space, set inside an eery Parisian culinary school awash with a sea of browning leaves underfoot. Similarly, the colour palette of Trubkovich’s paintings influenced the chosen hues of orange, muddy brown, yellow, cerulean and abstract patchwork.

Traditional craft and military uniforms from Hungary and Kiko’s native Bulgaria were echoed by the collection’s silhouette, constructing angular shapes through asymmetric outerwear, emulating parade wear with exaggerated shaggy wool robes and elongated balaclava hoods. Composite garments fed into the illusion of layering, collaged from juxtaposing fabrics to produce cocooning bolero-style jackets and revere collared shirting. On foot, the brand unveiled a new collaboration with Japanese sports label Asics, reinterpreting the tabi marathon shoes first developed l in the 1950s as low-top fabric runners and high-top boots.