Left Bank liberation

Kiko Kostadinov was inspired by the bohemian women of 1950s Paris
By Ella Joyce | Fashion | 12 March 2025

Back in January during Paris Fashion Week mens, Kiko Kostadinov was a resounding highlight and yesterday on the final day of the FW25 womenswear season, Laura and Deanna Fanning maintained that energy. Guests were invited to take a seat inside Brasserie Mollard, a one hundred-year-old Art Nouveau institute in the city’s 8th arrondissement, decorated with white tablecloths and stained glass windows.

This season was inspired by the women who frequented such spaces in the 1950s, most notably Vali Myers, an Australian dancer who moved to Paris to revel in the mid-century bohemian dream of life in the city. Black and white portraits from Ed Van Der Elsken’s Love on the Left Bank were at the centre of the designers’ moodboard, and studying the women who chose Paris as their spiritual home of liberation resulted in a collection designed for frivolity, staying up all night and drinking champagne as the sun rises on the Left Bank.

The opening look set the tone for a series of garments shaped around traditional underpinnings, mesh tights were layered over fine knitwear, modern interpretations of pointed brassieres met stiff crinolines and softly darted blouses were reminiscent of corsetry. Tomboyish silhouettes from 1950s Teddy Girls were felt in the tailoring, reinventing traditional shirting and suiting with drawstring waists and rope belts. Outerwear arrived in cropped voluminous silhouettes or sweeping shapes buttoned to the top in varying forms of knitted mohair, moleskin and alpaca. On foot, a collaboration with ASICS unveiled a new split-toe sneaker alongside the introduction of the brand’s doctor’s bags and gemstone neckerchiefs.

GALLERYCatwalk images from Kiko Kostadinov WOMENS-FALL-WINTER-25