Narcissus in Hackney

Paolo Carzana’s show was beautiful theatre in his own back garden
By Ella Joyce | Fashion | 18 September 2024
Above:

Photography by Henry Gorse

No other show on the London Fashion Week schedule felt quite as intimate as Paolo Carzana‘s, forgoing the traditional runway set-up and instead inviting his guests to a show at his Hackney home. As each attendee was greeted with a glass of natural wine and asked to take a seat in the designer’s back garden, the scene was set for Carzana’s breathtakingly beautiful SS25 offering.

Narcissus, the Thespian figure from Greek mythology who was so devilishly handsome he fell in love with his own reflection, lay at the centre of Carzana’s ethereal collection. Inspired specifically by Caravaggio’s 1599 painting of the fated Narcissus whose vanity was his hamartia, the first model opened the show by reenacting the scene, but instead of falling for his reflection, he washed it away, setting the tone for those following in his wake.

Exploring modern-day notions of self-absorption and narcissism saw Carzana focus on craft instead of stereotypical beauty, transporting us to the underworld to witness an ethereal series of garments crafted in delicate chiffon, whispy organza and crinkled twill. Trousers appeared to be built from reams of shredded fabrics, dresses hung asymmetrically on the body, showstopping 3d creations were worn as headpieces and instead of shoes, models’ feet were brushed with shimmering paint. Now the fifth time Carzana has shown on the LFW schedule, his presence felt stronger than ever, delivering a collection which marvelled at mythology and took us back to the core of what it means to be a designer in the 21st century.

GALLERYCatwalk images from Paolo Carzana WOMENS-SPRING-SUMMER-25





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