Rick Owens named his FW25 collection Concordians after the town of Concordia in Italy where the brand’s factory is located. In his travels there over 22 years, he has amassed a plethora of memories and sensations that he has translated into his latest collection. The most obvious of these being a new Rimowa collaboration, a suitcase with a Richard Serra-bronze exterior and lined in black leather, which will be limited to 500 editions. Thermal long johns also made a surprising appearance, an item that Owens comments first came into his life after he faced his first proper European winter.

A new style of boot made of spiky, feather-like darts of leather rustled on foot. Much like the inflatable rubber boots of previous seasons, you can already hear the stylists of the world fighting over them. The spikes also made an appearance on chain-linked skirts, giving many of the outfits in this collection a notably tactile feel. Match those with the return of Owens’ “megacrust” on several pairs of jeans (a thick layer of dried and crusted wax) and you have a sensory experience that is suitably nightmarish.

As always, it was the materials themselves that are deserving of all the applause. Rubber tops were disconcertingly frilled, heavy suedes were used in the trousers, bags were made from responsibly sourced alligator skin, and jackets and coats were made from British melange wool felt.

It was a more traditional runway than we’ve seen from Rick over the past few seasons but it was all still classically Rick, complete with a cast of models that you probably don’t want to run into down a dark alley at night.