For womenswear this season, Rick Owens continued down the same nostalgic path as his menswear offering from a few weeks ago. You may recall that the menswear collection was called Concordians and was inspired by the small factory town in Italy where OWENSCORP has its headquarters. For years, Rick would travel to the factory with his team, often sleeping on the couch in his office or in rural hotels with what he called “no-frills serial killer rooms.” For that menswear collection, he collaborated with Rimowa to create the most goth suitcase imaginable, which quickly sold out. That collaboration inspired Rick to design a leather flight jacket for this season, lined entirely in leather.

Drawing from last season, the frilled rubber tops made a return, but this time they were multiplied. There’s something so body horror about them, absolutely unsettling but brilliantly so. Truly, one of Rick’s most provocative creations. Elsewhere, Rick took a more disco-inspired turn with white sequinned pieces: a high-collared jacket and an opulent, toga-like dress. The standout fringed leather boots from last season were notably absent, but they did find themselves transformed into chain-linked dresses, with the fringe bobbing down the runway to a severe beat.

Much like his factory serves as a meeting point for artisans from around the world, this collection was also a global collaboration. There were wools from Japan and Britain, alligator skins from the US, and denim from Italy. This aspect of Rick’s practice is often overlooked, but he’s arguably one of the finest material makers out there. His garments are always crafted from the best of the best, the result of years of meticulous research and testing.

The theme of nostalgia wasn’t just woven into the collection itself. For the show’s soundtrack, Rick chose Mass Production by Iggy Pop, the same song he used for his very first New York runway show all those years ago.