Battlefield/dancefloor

Wartime pilots meet acid house ravers at Chopova Lowena
By Ella Joyce | Fashion | 22 February 2025

Forgoing a spot on the LFW schedule this season, Chopova Lowena dropped their Fw25 collection via lookbook. We’ve seen the design duo explore the folkloric traditions of Cornwall’s Helston’s Day Festival, heroines of the American West and wartime weddings, to name but a few, but this season Chopova Lowena continued to experiment with their foolproof formula of contradiction as late 80s acid house ravers co-existed alongside pilots and parachutists of the early 20th century.

Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena-Irons’ FW25 muse was Tiny Broadwick, the first woman to ever jump out of a plane in 1913, armed with a pair of frilly bloomers and a fearless disposition. Alongside the skydivers of the 1910s, the Night Witches of the Second World War – a group of Soviet female pilots who flew bombing missions against the Nazis – stood at the centre of the brand’s moodboard, refashioning their fighter pilot uniforms of girlish pinafores and voluminous bomber jackets with a punkish spirit. Bubble skirts were adorned with metal butterfly charms or carabiner clips and paired with puffball-sleeved shirts. ‘Don’t talk to me, I’m flying right now’ adorned mesh tees, badges and accessories.

Touches of Britain’s Second Summer of Love in the 1980s added an air of distinctly Chopova eccentricity to the collection, plastic beads and badges which populated outfits found on the warehouse dancefloors across Manchester, London and beyond were peppered across denim jeans and wool top coats. Hues of neon green and pink were airbrushed across lace frocks while cartoon girlies from rave flyers were reimagined as characters throughout the collection. Above all, this season saw Chopova equip their girls with the tenacity of women who changed the game, arming them with the power to traverse the world with reckless abandon. 

GALLERYCatwalk images from Chopova Lowena WOMENS-FALL-WINTER-25