New York Fashion Week has come to a close for another season. Though a few notable names were absent (Willy Chavarria opted for Paris and Ralph Lauren chose to sit this one out), the season was still as endlessly creative as always. Focusing on five of the best shows, we’ve rounded up New York Fashion Week so you don’t have to feel like you’ve missed out.

Thom Browne

Birds of a feather flocked together to Thom Browne’s FW25 show in New York this season as the collection took inspiration from herons, magpies and canaries. In a space inhabited by 2,000 origami birds, the models sported one of Browne’s most fantastically whimsical collections yet. Proportions were playfully wonky, with bulbous shoulders quickly cinching into tight waists and conical, crinoline dresses making several appearances. The highlight was surely the classic Thom Browne uniform that found itself re-envisioned in 3,500 Swarovski crystals on a trompe l’oeil dress.

Calvin Klein Collection 

Making its return to the runway after Raf Simons’ final collection in 2018, Calvin Klein Collection (or the brand formerly known as 205W39NYC) presented a whole new look under the creative direction of the Italian designer Veronica Leoni. Leoni, who previously worked as head of design at The Row, focused on sleek essentials for her first collection. Those hoping for an end to “quiet luxury” will have to wait it out as this collection may go down as one of the pinnacles of the trend, with its sleek cocktail dresses, single-breasted suits and pyjamas-style sets.

Coach

In the 1990s, Stuart Vevers left his native Doncaster to start a new life in New York City. For his collection for Coach this season, he revisited the New York of that era, reliving it through the films and photographs of Larry Clark. The silhouettes were baggy, the sunglasses were neon, and there was a distinct focus on sustainability. Taking inspiration from the current generation of kids, who love to openly reference the 90s in their personal style, the Coach collection was an eclectic mix of styles with duffle coats, acid-washed jeans, and printed t-shirts. In a touching tribute, the indie band Nation of Language channeled David Lynch through their dreamy live soundtrack in the middle of the show space.

Khaite

David Lynch was also on the mind of Cate Holstein with her latest collection for Khaite. The show notes posed the question, “What if David Lynch remade a Merchant Ivory movie?” An intriguing idea. Throughout the collection Holstein mixed these two ideas, the heritage dress of a classic Merchant Ivory production with a certain 90s seediness that felt suitably Lynchian. Naturally, it was all very minimal, but the palette of greys and blacks, shot through with a dash of Black Lodge Red, was suitably moody.

Eckhaus Latta

In the show notes for Eckhaus Latta’s FW25 show, Kaitlin Phillips wrote that “sincerity is not in style right now.” Echoing this sentiment, Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta showcased an utterly sincere collection this season made up of numerous characters, each displaying utterly wearable clothes. Hoodies, slacks, ECCO.kollektive shoes. No theatrics, no showstoppers, the whole point was to be basic.