Was this the first London Fashion Week where we didn’t hit the requisite 10k steps? Whilst the Fall-Winter edition of London has always been a slimmer affair, it was notable this season just how many major brands did not show. It was crickets from J.W. Anderson, Molly Goddard, Supriya Lele, Nensi Dojaka, Standing Ground and KNWLS who completely skipped this season, while 16Arlington, Aaron Esh, Chopova Lowena, Stefan Cooke and Ahluwalia all went down the lookbook route.

That being said, the brands that did go ahead with full runway shows this season did so with the relief of knowing that many of their biggest competitors weren’t around to steal their spotlight. Highlights included Paolo Carzana’s ethereal show in a Clerkenwell pub, Lueder’s midday rave, Simone Rocha’s decadent ode to childhood, and Dilara Findikoglu’s Botticellian club kids.

All of this comes as the economy hurtles toward recession. In 2023, Vogue Business reported that the cost of a “modest show” can vary from £10,000 to £50,000. Most younger brands simply do not have the money to show at fashion week anymore, despite sponsorships and incubators lending as much support as they can. Will this streamlined schedule become the standard for London Fashion Week in the coming seasons, as more designers choose the more cost-effective lookbook approach? It wouldn’t be surprising.