Inviting guests to the Paris Observatory – a research institution of the Paris Sciences et Lettres University and the foremost astronomical observatory of France – Acne Studios transformed the building’s 17th-century courtyard into an otherworldly space. Stepping into a giant cube shrouded by a purple velvet curtain, a metallic set-up featured rocks covered in mismatched knitting, created by Swedish artist duo Front, and a mirrored platform runway – this was Jonny Johansson’s vision of a futuristic skyline. On the front row, the likes of Doechii, The Dare, Shygirl, and PinkPantheress took their seats to a Björk soundtrack.

Inspired by his Nordic roots, FW25 saw creative director Jonny Johansson meditate on the juxtaposition of two worlds; “A Nordic upbringing develops a deep connection to nature. Nature and urban cities have always had a relation that fascinates me. It is the tension and contrast between the two of them that I have tried to portray within this collection.” Taking his woman on a journey from the North to the metropolis, Johansson presented a series of striking silhouettes in faux fur, sturdy leather, flocked denim and crisp vinyl. Outerwear was oversized in volume but softer in form with rounded sleeves and shoulders in an alternative take on power dressing, while hemlines of mesh skirts and fuzzy hot pants rose sky high. Dresses arrived either structured in bulbous shearling or deconstructed in draped jersey, which clung closely to the body in a further match-making of opposites. Retro-inspired silk scarves were reimagined as tops in 70s-inspired shades of red, purple and gold, while patterns which, at first, appeared to be polka dots transpired to be tiny teddy bears, nodding to Johansson’s exploration of nostalgia. On foot, playful felt boots mimicked that of a soft toy, alongside a series of classic penny loafers ‘broken’ into boots or heels in faux ostrich, lizard, and alligator.