This season, Issey Miyake drew inspiration from the work of Austrian conceptual artist Erwin Wurm, best known for his One Minute Sculptures series. In this series, participants pose with objects, often in unconventional ways, for one minute. At the heart of Issey Miyake’s showspace, figures larger than life, wrapped in Miyake’s signature fabric, were displayed in a style reminiscent of Wurm’s sculptures.

The collection was titled [N]either [N]or, with the show notes describing its concept as “the portrayal of ambiguity as an attempt to connect contrasting binaries in materiality, form, and meaning.” This theme came to life in garments that were intentionally unsettling and strange. The Knit (As It Is) pieces were sculptural yet droopy, while the Paper Bag pieces were basically paper bags transformed into wearable tops, complete with handles, and the collaboration with Camper resulted in shoes that resembled deflated horse hooves.

Despite their strangeness, these eccentric touches made the collection stand out as one of the brand’s most memorable. Highlights included dresses featuring prints of other looks from the collection and the Generic Stripes pieces, which combined machine pleating and hand pleating to create a striking optical illusion. By embracing Wurm’s playful, madcap approach, Issey Miyake crafted one of its most inventive and fun collections to-date.