At Balmain this season, Olivier Rousteing set out to start afresh. After 14 years at the brand, he’s seeking a new beginning, an opportunity to write “the first chapter of a new book about the present and future of the house.” Fourteen years is an impressive tenure, especially amid the disruption we’ve seen in the industry lately. But Rousteing isn’t going anywhere. In a rare move in today’s fashion economy, he’s staying put.

Drawing inspiration from the boldness and confidence of Pierre Balmain, the collection became a meeting point between Rousteing and the house’s founder. Or, as the show notes described it, “Africa meeting Paris.” The runway was filled with animal prints and crocodile textures, yet also carried the signature French elegance the brand is known for. The collection delved into the archives, reimagining silhouettes and pieces from the ’50s, ’60s, and ’80s.

As always, the Balmain woman was front and center. This season, she exuded a distinctly utilitarian flair, embracing the uniform trend that has been prevalent across the runways. But true to Balmain’s signature style, it was all elevated. The Balmain woman doesn’t simply show up to work in a pencil skirt and pumps — she steps out in zebra-print with matching fuzzy heels.