Alright, show of hands — who here was expecting the Valentino show notes for this season to reference Wittgenstein, Foucault, and Hannah Arendt? Alessandro Michele took a philosophical turn this season, presenting a collection that aimed to challenge our perceptions of intimacy and its complex relationship with the self. The show was set in a red public bathroom, a space Foucault would describe as a “heterotopia,” a place that exists outside societal norms, where the very function of the space disrupts the usual order of things. 

This collection was packed with big ideas, so it’s no surprise that the show itself (now something of a trademark for Michele) was monumental. A total of 80 looks graced the runway, blending menswear and womenswear, each one firmly grounded in Michele’s new vision for Valentino. The fur trend continued (though one could easily credit Michele as its originator) with jackets and coats, and fur also made its way onto sleeve cuffs and dress hems. There were plenty of stunning sequinned looks, especially one dress featuring a meticulously beaded cat’s face across the chest. Elsewhere, in a surprising twist, a very special collaboration with Vans saw the skate brand’s iconic checkerboard slip-ons decorated with Valentino’s monogram.

Many of the outfits really came together in the detailing. Ruches and bows were everywhere. Delicate beading and complex lacework elevated numerous looks. It was another huge show from Michele who seems set to prove himself as the most prolific designer working today.