Psych freak-out
Welcome to the HERO SS15 daily roundup – the most important shows, themes and concepts, contextually curated for your reading pleasure. The best place to understand the week’s events in fashion.
The artist book that forms the Saint Laurent invite sets the tone. This season collected the work of Bruce Conner, a talent who spent almost all his career in San Francisco, channelling the energy of Beat, Psychedelia and Punk into his work – “disintegrating assemblages, impossibly controlled mandala drawings, combat-zone rock photos and silent self-portrait photograms.” The show notes explained how Conner’s first film was selected by the Library of Congress as one of the few American experimental films deemed ‘culturally, historically or aesthetically important’ – despite the artist never taking a class in his life. Conner is credited with contributing the language of the contemporary music video: stroboscopic fast edits, collaged segments, countdown leader and film artefacts. He was, if you will, a Psych artist.
Transgressive SF spirit – the city defined the original 60’s explosion – underscored Slimane’s collection, which was a celebration of Psych rock’s new rising (to be be documented in a photography exhibition, Sonic, at the Fondation Pierre Bergé–Yves Saint Laurent in September). You might be thinking the story is pure California, so firing is the West Coast in terms of garage bands, DIY and independent tape labels at the moment. It is. But if you’re in Liverpool near the end of September, you can come to our little island’s International Festival of Psychedelia (featuring the likes of Temple Songs, Theo Verney and Whistlejacket).
The clothes? The ultimate, giddy wardrobe of ponchos, suede, tunics, fringing, couture beaded blankets and loads of amazing jewellery – the kind that inspired Loulou de la Falaise, who the show was dedicated to, alongside Betty Catroux. They would’ve had a great time in these clothes with M. Saint Laurent in the mid-60s. (Yes, the collection was shown on boys and girls). Wide-brimmed hats, complete with feathers cut a dash through the air with every step. Those steps took place in snakeskin or metallic silver western boots appliquéd with red stars. Race you to the waiting list in 3, 2, 1…
Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane SS15: Look 38
After nearly two weeks of shows, from London, Florence, Milan and Paris; some very accomplished, a few not worth talking about, we’ve seen some beautiful clothes and great things to shoot. What we haven’t seen are any collections that distil movements and the spirit of the zeitgeist to create a magnificent world, a gilded tribute given back to its fans. Slimane’s Saint Laurent does that, there is a reason this house is headlining the entire season. And if you passed by the Carreau du Temple, a building on the site of the prison where the Royal Family were held during the French revolution, you would’ve seen those hoards, and hoards, and hoards of fans freak-out outside.
Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane SS15: Look 3
At Lanvin, Lucas Ossendrijver tackled the topical in terms of how luxury fits in to everyday, from running for the Métro to taking an Uber, the easy-ride app that has taxi drivers everywhere in a twist. That’s why the sleeves were pushed up, his man has places to go and is going there fast, perfectly nonchalant in his stride – notice the hand in pocket? Ossendrijver has made marrying ease with being put-together his journey, smart but not captive to fashion, with a taste for decadent, experimental fabrics and human touches – like slashing the sleeves off a jacket or shirt and leaving a raw trail, for instance. The work to get such a lovely equilibrium is complicated but you shouldn’t know that. The swan glides gracefully, the pedalling underneath is not to be thought about.
Look 34
Lanvin SS15: Look 32
Paul Smith went all horticultural, appropriate for a Sunday, but there was more to it than meets the eye. If last season plastered hallucinogenic mushrooms over silk, jacquard Western shirts and sweatshirts, this season there was definately something more herbal. Yellow lensed sunglasses and louche, silk suiting in navy were order of the day, with feather trims and fringed scarves. Think gardening-clubbing.
Check out our roundups of Paris days one, two, three and four plus London and Milan.